What the Work Involves
We check the schedule, test the controller outputs, and then test voltage at the valve. A valve that hums but will not open may have a failed solenoid or debris inside the diaphragm. A zone that will not shut off can have the same debris holding the valve open. We repair the part that failed and reprogram the watering days and start times with you.
What You Get
- Controller settings checked before parts are sold
- Valve boxes opened and tested at the valve
- Schedule and rain sensor reviewed after repair
Signs You Need This
- A zone runs outside its programmed time
- The display is blank or resets
- One zone stays on after the others stop
- The rain sensor never interrupts watering
A Schedule Problem or a Hardware Problem
Before we open a valve box, we read every start time. A controller with three start times can run the whole program three times, and that looks like a stuck system when the equipment is doing exactly what it was told. We clear duplicate starts and run a manual test.
If a zone still fails during the manual test, then we meter the terminal and move outside. That order saves you from paying for a valve when the real problem was a setting.
Valve Boxes Fill With Water
A wet valve box does not always mean the valve body cracked. Water can travel down the pipe from a break outside the box, or a slow diaphragm leak can drain through the lowest head. We dry the box, run the zone, and watch where water enters.
When the valve needs rebuilding, we keep dirt out of the open line and replace the worn diaphragm or solenoid with a compatible part. Then the zone gets tested from the controller, not only by turning the valve by hand.